If you’ve ever stared at a cold, exposed brick wall in a living room, hallway, or office and thought, “This space could use a polished, modern touch,” aluminium skirting boards are the way to go. They’re durable, easy to clean, and way less likely to warp or scratch than traditional wooden skirting. But installing them on a brick wall isn’t as simple as nailing a piece of wood—you’ve got to work with that rough, porous surface, and get the mounting right so they stay put for years. I’ve been supplying aluminium trim profiles (including all kinds of skirting) for over 8 years, and I’ve seen my fair share of botched installations. Today, I’m breaking down the step-by-step process, no fancy jargon, so even a first-time DIYer can get this done, plus linking to the exact products I stock if you want to skip the hassle of hunting for materials.
First, let’s talk about why aluminium is such a smart pick for brick walls. Brick is porous, absorbs moisture, and can be uneven, so wood rots or pulls away over time—but aluminium doesn’t care about humidity, it resists dents, and it can be cut to fit any gap. I stock tons of options depending on your vibe: if you want a sleek, bold look, my Black Aluminium Skirting Board is a fan favorite for modern industrial spaces. For a muted, professional finish, Anodized Aluminum Skirting Boards come in neutral tones that don’t clash with brick’s natural red or grey hues. If you prefer a soft, textured touch, Brushed Aluminium Skirting adds a subtle sheen that catches light without being flashy. And for built-in designs that sit flush with the wall (no uneven edges), Built-in Baseboards are perfect if you want a super clean, minimalist aesthetic. All of these work great on brick, but you need the right tools and prep work first.
Let’s start with the basics: gather your stuff. You’ll need way more than just the skirting itself. First, measure your walls—don’t just guess, get a tape measure and write down each length, then add 10% extra for mistakes, cuts, or if you need to fill gaps. For tools, you’ll need a drill with a masonry bit (critical—regular wood bits won’t cut into brick), a spirit level (never skip this, even if your wall looks straight), a caulking gun, adhesive made for brick and metal (wood glue won’t stick here, trust me), a pencil, a hacksaw or miter saw for cutting aluminium (aluminium is soft, so a fine-toothed blade works best), and sandpaper (fine grit, to smooth cut edges so they don’t scratch you). Also, you can’t forget accessories—Aluminium Skirting Board Accessories like corner pieces (internal and external), end caps, and hole covers for electrical outlets (super important if you have plugs near the floor) are non-negotiable. I always recommend picking these at the same time as your skirting so you don’t run back to the store mid-project.
Now, prep work—this is 70% of the job, and if you skip it, your skirting will fall off or look terrible. First, clear the area: move furniture, take off baseboard trim that’s already there, and wipe down the entire brick wall where the skirting will go. Brick has dust, loose mortar, and even cobwebs that will stop adhesive from sticking, so use a stiff brush to scrub the wall, then a damp cloth to wipe it clean, and let it dry completely. Next, check for uneven spots on the brick. Brick walls are rarely perfectly flat, so if there’s a bump, you’ll need to sand it down or fill it with plaster. If there’s a gap bigger than 2mm between the brick and where your skirting will sit, use a mortar or filler to smooth it out. This step is boring, but it makes the final install look seamless. Finally, mark your guide line: use the spirit level to draw a straight line along the wall where the top of your skirting will sit. Don’t rely on the floor being level—brick floors can be uneven, so the line is your only straight reference.
Next step: cut your skirting to size. Measure each wall section, minus 1mm (so it fits snug, no gaps). For corners, cut at a 45-degree angle—hold two pieces of skirting up to the corner, mark where the angle needs to be, then cut with your saw. Pro tip: clamp the skirting to a workbench before cutting so it doesn’t shift. Once cut, sand the cut edges smooth—aluminium edges are sharp, so this keeps you safe and also prevents the metal from catching on anything later. If you’re using accessories like corner pieces, cut those to match too—they’re designed to fit, but a tiny trim might be needed for a perfect fit.
Now, here’s the part most people mess up: mounting the skirting on brick. First, decide if you want to use adhesive alone or adhesive plus screws. For most residential brick walls, adhesive works, but if you’re in a high-traffic area or large space, adding screws will make it way sturdier. If you’re using screws: hold the skirting up to your guide line, mark where the screw holes will go (they should be 40-50cm apart, so no gaps longer than that), then use your masonry drill bit to drill holes through the skirting and into the brick. The drill bit should be slightly smaller than your screws so they grip tight. Once holes are drilled, tap the screws in (don’t over-tighten, that can crack the brick or bend the skirting) and wipe away any dust from the holes. If you’re using adhesive only: apply a thin, even bead of adhesive along the back of the skirting, leaving a gap every few cm so air can escape (this prevents bubbles under the skirting). Don’t use too much adhesive—it will squeeze out and be a mess later.
Once your skirting is ready to install, line it up with your guide line and press firmly against the wall. If you used screws, drive them in slightly until the skirting is flush with the brick. If you used adhesive, hold it in place for 30 seconds (I like to use masking tape to hold it while the adhesive sets) to make sure it doesn’t shift. Work from one corner to the next, and keep checking with the spirit level every few pieces to make sure everything stays straight. For corners, apply a little extra adhesive to the 45-degree cut before pressing the two pieces together, and wipe away any squeezed-out adhesive immediately with a damp cloth—once it dries, it’s almost impossible to remove.
The final step is filling gaps and finishing touches. No brick wall is perfectly smooth, so there will be tiny gaps between the skirting and the brick, especially at the floor or along the edges. Use paintable silicone caulk (match the color of your skirting if you can, or go clear for black or brushed aluminium) to fill these gaps. Run the caulk along the gap, then smooth it with your finger (wipe your finger with a little water first so it doesn’t stick) to get a neat, even line. If you have electrical outlets near the floor, cut holes in the skirting to fit around them using a hole saw—measure the outlet, mark the size on the skirting, and cut carefully so the skirting fits snugly around the plug. Finally, let everything dry for at least 24 hours before touching it or moving furniture back.
Wait, a quick tip I learned over the years: test a small piece of skirting on a spare brick scrap first before doing the whole wall. That way you can make sure the adhesive sticks, the screws don’t split the brick, and the cuts fit right. I always do this with my customers who are first-timers—it saves a lot of headache. Also, if you’re not 100% comfortable drilling into brick, hiring a local handyman is totally fine—most can get this done in a few hours, and it’s worth it for a professional finish.
If you’re ready to get your hands on the skirting and accessories I mentioned earlier, just reach out to my team for bulk pricing or custom sizes. We ship nationwide, and we’ve got every style: from the bold black aluminium skirting to the subtle brushed aluminium, plus all the corner pieces, end caps, and outlet covers you need. No more settling for flimsy wooden skirting that rots after a year—aluminium is a long-term investment that makes your space look way more modern.
References:
- Home Repair & Improvement Magazine. (2022). "Skirting Board Installation for Brick Surfaces: A Step-by-Step Guide."
- Aluminum Association. (2023). "Benefits of Aluminum Trim Profiles for Residential and Commercial Buildings."
- DIY Network. (2021). "How to Cut and Install Mitered Corners for Wall Trim."
- Brick Industry Association. (2020). "Proper Preparation and Adhesives for Mounting Materials on Porous Brick Walls."
